Galley and Head LED lights update

After couple of fluorescent tube decided to stop working, we decided to upgrade the couple fixture with modern looking one.

Cabin teak floor varnishing

0

The 2 cabin boards near the engine came with the boat in a pretty bad shape, they were in need of some love. I decided the risk was very low to exercise my varnishing skills on these boards. The result happened to be way better than I expected.

Update March 2019. After this rainy winter and couple of leaks, it’s time to do the forward cabin floor board.

Tools & Chemicals

Preparation

  • Pour the stripper on to the wood in a puddle
  • Spread it initially with a brush
  • Allow the stripper to “work” for 10-15 minutes
  • Start to scrape with a 3″ flat putty knife
  • Pile up the stripper/old varnish in the middle of the board
  • Use a couple larger putty knives to remove the stripper/old Varnish
  • Dispose of it in a shoebox with a plastic bag liner.
  • Repeat the entire process anywhere from 3 to 5 more times.
  • Once all or most of the varnish was removed clean the wood with acetone
  • Allow to dry overnight and clean the wood with acetone again
  • After completely drying lightly sand the wood with 220 grit paper
  • Wipe it down with acetone again
  • At this point it is ready for epoxy / varnish

Update March 2019. I replaced CitriStrip with Klean Strip for the forward board, way easier to apply.

Epoxy / Varnishing

Start with 4 coats of clear coat of epoxy. I usually apply the 4 coats of epoxy in less of 48 hours.

Continue with 4 coats of undiluted Epifanes Varnish.

Update March 2019. 2 years later the Epifanes Varnish was still ok, but added a bit of mineral spirit before to apply it.

AC circuit corroded bus bar replacement

0

One of the item to tackle from our purchase survey! The original bus bar for the AC circuit was corroded. It was a straight forward maintenance.

Less of $20 bus bar from blue sea and some jumpers.

Seakamp 200420 zinc replacement

0

Any idea what is the zinc matching the Seakamp 200420 heat exchanger?

Seakamp just replied to me ​”¼  npt thread zinc is 1.7 inch”

Checking on the catalina36.org association, I got recommended size E0 from this site.

They also have a page for the kind you screw into the brass cap – but you may have to cut that to length.

Anyway I had to cut to the length even the E0, as soon as it was inserted the water was not able to go through anymore.

 

Transmission stiff shifting and control cable replacement

0
Over the week-end, we had an issue with the transmission where it was not possible to shift to forward gear anymore.
Few minutes later and too much play with the gear control, I managed to shear the screw in the shift lever, as you can see in the picture below.

sheared screw in my catalina 36 shift lever
sheared screw in my catalina 36 shift lever

After a safe back-up to the dock, thanks a lot to the help of Philippe Guillaud and his family!
It’s now time to fix Hotel Catalina (again)!

Plan!

This issue looks to be current with Edson Pedestal (as all other issues before :)), according to multiple comments online:

So the plan will be to:

  1. Remove the sheared screw from the lever
    1. How? Still need to figure it out
  2. Replace this screw:
    1. https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socket-Screws-Stainless-Quantity/dp/B00YSS9ZAG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1488176791&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4-28+x+3%2F4+stainless+steel+screw
  3. Check that the transmission shifts easily by itself to make sure the problem is coming from the control cable and not the transmission itself
  4. Figure out what size of control cables needs to be ordered:
    1. 14′ cable (transmission): http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1544_841/engine-control-cable-14br-c-270-c-28-c-310-c-320-c-36.cfm
    2. 15′ cable (throttle): http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1545_841/engine-control-cable-15brc-34-c-36.cfm
  5. Replace the old control cables with a coupling nut (10-32) connecting the old and new one:
    1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1JA51-Rod-Coupling-Nut-Grade2-10-32-Pk10-/381002901460
  6. Give some love to the engine parts who need a bit of painting:
    1. metal treatment: https://www.amazon.com/Ospho-605-Metal-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG
    2. paint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JG01VQ/ref=ox_huc_add_on_msg_title_1?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
    3. Protect the fuel line from chafing, not sure how I missed them during my last chafing protection mission.

Picture from the control cable to replace
Picture from the control cable to replace

New priority project on Hotel Catalina! Let’s see how many week-end will I need to get it fixed 🙂

Helm tear down and fixing

Most of this section is coming from this document from Edson Marine. Edson Marine has been very helpful to answer my questions about the different part numbers I was not able to find around.

Edson Pedestal
Edson Pedestal

Remove the broken screw in the 960-A-938 lever assembly

During the issue the screw broke and the gear handle got free:
Easier than expected! I was able to get it out pretty easily with an easy out screw extractor after I drilled a small hole in it with a 1/16″ cobalt drill bit.

1/16" cobalt drill bit hole
1/16″ cobalt drill bit hole

Remove the compass

The 3 first ¼”-20 x 3 ½” ¼”-20 x 4” stainless machine screw came out very easily and of course as usual one didn’t come at all after a lot of drilling and one drill bit broken I succeeded to get the compass out with only one screw to replace!

compass broken screw
compass broken screw

Remove housing

Remove broken ¼”-20 x 3 ½” ¼”-20 x 4” stainless machine screw

At the beginning based on documentation and online information I ordered by mistake 3 ½” machine screws where needed 4″ long screws.
 

broken screw removing method
broken screw removing method

Lost lever assembly to control housing screw

Lost lever assembly to control housing screw
Lost lever assembly to control housing screw

I just had to send a quick email to edson to be able to order the needed screw on boltdepot.com.

Those screws are 8-32 pan head machine screws 3/8” long.

Remove screw holding the cable holder

I was doubtful about this part since it looks tedious to get it back there. But it was not as bad as it looked.

screw holding the cable holder
screw holding the cable holder

 

Engine room side work

 
 Now I am done on removing the different pieces on the pedestal side, I need to see how it looks on the transmission side.

Transmission control cable holder

Transmission control cable holder
Transmission control cable holder

Pretty rusty but not too difficult to remove.

Pretty rusty but not too difficult to remove.
Pretty rusty but not too difficult to remove.

Transmission control cable is now free

Transmission control cable before cleaning

 
 
 

Transmission arm removal 

Removed from the transmission but impossible to disconnect the cable from the arm 

 
 
 
 

 After some efforts the transmission cable is totally free!

Cables pulling

Time to put a coupling nut (10-32) and send the new control cables

Old cables removed

New screws from boltdepot.com arrived

Cables replaced. Time to put everything back together at the pedestal

Now at the engine

Bracket cleaned and painted

 

Cables in place

Machines Screw too small for the housing!

First I went back with the old one before to replace them later on.

Compas LED crimping for easier removal next time

Everything is now back to normal!

This project took me 2 week-ends, and some painting at home. When it happens I thought it will take a lot longer, but it got fixed pretty fast.

More information about this process

Here more good information about this issue:

WEATHER

Marina del Rey
mist
13.2 ° C
18 °
8.3 °
82 %
1.2kmh
90 %
Tue
22 °
Wed
22 °
Thu
20 °
Fri
19 °
Sat
26 °

POPULAR ARTICLES