One of the item to tackle from our purchase survey! The original bus bar for the AC circuit was corroded. It was a straight forward maintenance.
Less of $20 bus bar from blue sea and some jumpers.
M25XPB Water pump replacement – Sherwood vs Oberdorfer
Since day 1 we own the boat, the sherwood water pump was leaking a bit, it was never the top issue but always something bothering me. In this article we are going to go through:
- Replacing the water pump
- Replacing one of the old cooling hose
- Touch up painting of the engine oil crankcase
It took few hours to go through this work, but everything was pretty straight forward.
Original state of Hotel Catalina
Here couple of pictures from June 2016, 2 weeks after we took delivery of Hotel Catalina.
Based on this pictures we can saw this leak has been there for a while by the rust we can see on the engine.
Time to fix this leak and give some love to the engine!
It has been now over 1 year we own the boat and it’s time to tackle this pump leaking and clean the rust on the engine block.
Here are few of the options to complete this task:
- get a rebuilt kit and fixing it (tried it, it was worse!)
- new sherwood pump (very expensive and not so much good feedback on the different forums)
- migrate (upgrade?) to Oberdorfer
- Replacing with an Oberdorfer pump that has the base that goes on with the same clip system as your Sherwood pump (more expensive, but more straight forward replacement)
- If you aren’t scared of, rework the base of the Oberdorfer bolt on pump so it bolts into the pump land on the engine (way cheaper, but a bit too involved in my mind)
After looking online I found a very good deal on the N202M-908 at pump and parts online. Let’s go with this solution!
- http://www.pumpvendor.com/Oberdorfer_N202M-908.html
- https://www.pumpsandpartsonline.com/shop/oberdorfer-pumps/rubber-impeller/rubberimpellerpumps/N202M-908
Here is the invoice for the pump:
Replacing the elbow water pump hose
This step is unrelated to the water pump, but it was way easier to complete since the water pump was not in the way anymore.
New hose installed!
Now time to fill the radiator with new coolant! Last time was replaced was last year during the heat exchanger failure.
Now the hose has been replaced, let’s replace the water pump!
The service from https://www.pumpsandpartsonline.com/about-us was very good! Few days after the order I received the part as expected.
Now it’s time for some painting touch up
It’s the first time I try that, I decided to pick white to be able to see if any leak happens in the future. The result is pretty good looking. Next time I have a chance to remove the belt, I will definitely do more painting.
Pump installed and running!
Temperature is good!
Impeller replacement for my spare kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112455220825
Transmission stiff shifting and control cable replacement
Over the week-end, we had an issue with the transmission where it was not possible to shift to forward gear anymore.
Few minutes later and too much play with the gear control, I managed to shear the screw in the shift lever, as you can see in the picture below.
After a safe back-up to the dock, thanks a lot to the help of Philippe Guillaud and his family!
It’s now time to fix Hotel Catalina (again)!
Plan!
This issue looks to be current with Edson Pedestal (as all other issues before :)), according to multiple comments online:
So the plan will be to:
- Remove the sheared screw from the lever
- How? Still need to figure it out
- Replace this screw:
- Check that the transmission shifts easily by itself to make sure the problem is coming from the control cable and not the transmission itself
- Figure out what size of control cables needs to be ordered:
- Replace the old control cables with a coupling nut (10-32) connecting the old and new one:
- Give some love to the engine parts who need a bit of painting:
- metal treatment: https://www.amazon.com/Ospho-605-Metal-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG
- paint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JG01VQ/ref=ox_huc_add_on_msg_title_1?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
- Protect the fuel line from chafing, not sure how I missed them during my last chafing protection mission.
New priority project on Hotel Catalina! Let’s see how many week-end will I need to get it fixed 🙂
Helm tear down and fixing
Most of this section is coming from this document from Edson Marine. Edson Marine has been very helpful to answer my questions about the different part numbers I was not able to find around.
Remove the broken screw in the 960-A-938 lever assembly
During the issue the screw broke and the gear handle got free:
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1/4-28 x 3/4″ SS screw going to the stainless clutch handle
Easier than expected! I was able to get it out pretty easily with an easy out screw extractor after I drilled a small hole in it with a 1/16″ cobalt drill bit.
Remove the compass
The 3 first ¼”-20 x 3 ½” ¼”-20 x 4” stainless machine screw came out very easily and of course as usual one didn’t come at all after a lot of drilling and one drill bit broken I succeeded to get the compass out with only one screw to replace!
Remove housing
Remove broken ¼”-20 x 3 ½” ¼”-20 x 4” stainless machine screw
At the beginning based on documentation and online information I ordered by mistake 3 ½” machine screws where needed 4″ long screws.
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¼”-20 x 4” stainless and should be coated with Tef Gel when installing.
Lost lever assembly to control housing screw
I just had to send a quick email to edson to be able to order the needed screw on boltdepot.com.
Those screws are 8-32 pan head machine screws 3/8” long.
Remove screw holding the cable holder
I was doubtful about this part since it looks tedious to get it back there. But it was not as bad as it looked.
Engine room side work
Now I am done on removing the different pieces on the pedestal side, I need to see how it looks on the transmission side.
Transmission control cable holder
Pretty rusty but not too difficult to remove.
Transmission control cable is now free
Transmission control cable before cleaning
Transmission arm removal
Removed from the transmission but impossible to disconnect the cable from the arm
After some efforts the transmission cable is totally free!
Cables pulling
Time to put a coupling nut (10-32) and send the new control cables
Old cables removed
New screws from boltdepot.com arrived
Cables replaced. Time to put everything back together at the pedestal
Now at the engine
Bracket cleaned and painted
Cables in place
Machines Screw too small for the housing!
First I went back with the old one before to replace them later on.
Compas LED crimping for easier removal next time
Everything is now back to normal!
This project took me 2 week-ends, and some painting at home. When it happens I thought it will take a lot longer, but it got fixed pretty fast.
More information about this process
Here more good information about this issue:
Cabin teak floor varnishing
The 2 cabin boards near the engine came with the boat in a pretty bad shape, they were in need of some love. I decided the risk was very low to exercise my varnishing skills on these boards. The result happened to be way better than I expected.
Update March 2019. After this rainy winter and couple of leaks, it’s time to do the forward cabin floor board.
Tools & Chemicals
- Preparation:
- stripping pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPEE3S/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- stripping brush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AW638K/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- plastic knife: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SBJIA8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- CitriStrip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFCP1G/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Epoxy / Varnishing:
- sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/3M-SandBlaster-Between-Sandpaper-220-Grit/dp/B000BQRFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497385775&sr=8-1&keywords=3M-SandBlaster-Between-Sandpaper-220-Grit%2F
- foam brushes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N6GB/
- tack clothes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049OP9FY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RVZMUSUX5400&psc=1
- West system 105 epoxy resin: https://www.westsystem.com/105-epoxy-resin/
- West System 207 clear coat hardener: https://www.westsystem.com/207-special-clear-hardener/
- epifanes varnish: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ADWOUG/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IKJEDNWCGIBJ7&colid=3BL9QML8Q7GIE
Preparation
- Pour the stripper on to the wood in a puddle
- Spread it initially with a brush
- Allow the stripper to “work” for 10-15 minutes
- Start to scrape with a 3″ flat putty knife
- Pile up the stripper/old varnish in the middle of the board
- Use a couple larger putty knives to remove the stripper/old Varnish
- Dispose of it in a shoebox with a plastic bag liner.
- Repeat the entire process anywhere from 3 to 5 more times.
- Once all or most of the varnish was removed clean the wood with acetone
- Allow to dry overnight and clean the wood with acetone again
- After completely drying lightly sand the wood with 220 grit paper
- Wipe it down with acetone again
- At this point it is ready for epoxy / varnish
Update March 2019. I replaced CitriStrip with Klean Strip for the forward board, way easier to apply.
Epoxy / Varnishing
Start with 4 coats of clear coat of epoxy. I usually apply the 4 coats of epoxy in less of 48 hours.
Continue with 4 coats of undiluted Epifanes Varnish.
Update March 2019. 2 years later the Epifanes Varnish was still ok, but added a bit of mineral spirit before to apply it.
Seakamp 200420 zinc replacement
Any idea what is the zinc matching the Seakamp 200420 heat exchanger?
Seakamp just replied to me ”¼ npt thread zinc is 1.7 inch”
Checking on the catalina36.org association, I got recommended size E0 from this site.
They also have a page for the kind you screw into the brass cap – but you may have to cut that to length.
Anyway I had to cut to the length even the E0, as soon as it was inserted the water was not able to go through anymore.
